Archive for The Project

Cultural Studies

// June 17th, 2009 // No Comments » // The Project, WaterStories

“You have not talked to me all day,” Evans Chiyenge says to me in his beautiful lilting accent.

It’s true. I hadn’t. This morning when arrived at CAWST, I’d tried to get away with the style of North American coldness that is so commonplace here, it’s no longer rude. The kind where you arrive, nod once as a vague catch-all greeting to everyone in the room, sit down and stare at your pen.

That stuff doesn’t wash with Evans.

“You Westerners are very time-conscious and money-conscious,” he said later in the group discussion. “Where I come from, people value relationships. You must show concern for the people’s family. Ask after their health. You must talk about things totally unrelated to your business, then they will cooperate.”

At lunch, I decided to drop all my afternoon plans and share a meal with my soon-to-be-host in Zambia.

“In Zambia, every conversation begins with family and ends with family,” Tal, CAWST’s technical advisor for Africa, told me later. So, my cheeks hot with the realization that I’d already been terribly rude, I asked about Evans’ family.

I learned he has four biological children and four adopted children, all of them AIDS orphans from cousins or siblings. “Everyone in Zambia is affected by the AIDS. Even if you are not infected, you are affected.”

He tells me with pride about his daughters, all of whom he says are breel-yant. He thanks God for that – he wouldn’t have been able to afford their school fees if they hadn’t been awarded the scholarships that have since allowed them to study medicine, accounting and evironmental engineering in the US.

“We haven’t been as lucky with the boys,” he says, crinkling up his nose.

One is many years behind in his schooling. “Because he is lazy. All he wants to do is watch soccer. I got rid of the TV. If I didn’t, he would be watching soccer right now.”

The eldest son is in jail, serving fifteen years for drug-related charges. Evans’ wife, a lawyer, will try to get him out next year. I was shocked at the length of the jail term, but Evans says it’s been good for him. “He was always so rebellious. When his parents died, he wouldn’t listen to us. ‘You are not my parents,’ he would say. Now he has changed.”

Evans has a serious face that turns boyish when he smiles. He is over 50 but looks barely a day over 30 – too young for his ‘last-born’ son to be seventeen years old. He lives in Lusaka, but says he’ll make sure to be in Ndola when we are there. This is no small feat for Evans – he’s traveled nine out of the past twelve months getting the new Manzi (Water) Centre up and running, and training people in six other African countries. He is tired, but proud of what they’d already accomplished.

I stand to leave as the afternoon’s group shuffles in and sits down. I offer Evans my hand, thanking him for speaking with me. He lets go of my hand, reaches around me and pulls me into a hug.

Like A (Field) Virgin

// June 16th, 2009 // No Comments » // The Project, Travel Planning

Getting information about life in the field has been harder than I thought.

I’ve chatted with people from CAWST who work in the areas where we’re going. I’ve talked to the people who LIVE in the areas where we’re going. And every time I ask a question, they stop just short of rolling their eyes.

I ask things like, “So, where are we staying?” And they look at me like I’ve said the single most pointless thing in the world.

Up until today, I thought it was an engineer thing. Engineers frequently look at me like I’m an air-head…until win them over with my charm. That’s when the real INFORMATION EXCHANGE starts happening.

But today, after being on the business end of my four hundredth blank stare, I decided it was me. I’m not asking the right questions. I’m asking ‘Where are we staying?’ when what I really mean is ‘Is there a shower?’ or ‘Will I end up with amoebic dysentery?’

Yesterday, I tried a new approach. I cornered the most sympathetic-looking CAWST employee I could find. “I’ve never been in the field before,” I said with an edge of panic in my voice.

“You haven’t?” she said. And miraculously, the blank stare turned into a look of surprise.

Nope.

“Well, it can be overwhelming. But you know, humanity is humanity. No matter where you are.”

Yes, thank you, but CAN I DRINK THE WATER?

“Oh! No. I take a ceramic filter and chlorine tabs when I go.”

Oh.

“Yeah, filter it into a Nalgene bottle. And listen to everything you read about salad vegetables.”

She walked away. Salad vegetables? In India? Despite the relative success of my new method, I felt shaken. What else do I need to know? What other critical information has fallen through the cracks between What You Assume I Know and What I Assume You’d Tell Me?

The way I see it, this information means the difference between me puking and pooping for two months straight or actually getting some work done. This goes so far beyond what I’m freaking WEARING, I can’t even tell you.

This Is Really Happening

// June 5th, 2009 // No Comments » // The Project, Travel Planning

I picked Cate up downtown this morning – seeing the woman I’ll be spending my entire summer with for the very first time. We got to CAWST and she, Alison and I did a squealing, shrieking Happy Dance in the middle of the lobby.

This is really happening.

The past couple of months have been surreal for me. Every morning, I wake up and pad bleary-eyed to my computer, half-expecting a HA-HA-JUST-KIDDING email from Alison, Cate…or God. A message saying, ‘No, actually, you DID make this whole thing up and it WAS all a dream. Sorry.’

Turns out, the other girls have had the same kind of experience. Only theirs has been a longer journey than mine. They’ve been living this dream for two and a half years.

Two and a half years of excitement and inspiration, disappointment and frustration, losing hope and keeping the faith, applying for six thousand grants and dealing with 5,999 rejections.

And today, it all got real.

The three of us in that lobby, squealing and jumping up and down. Hearing about how Cate hasn’t heard a THING from our in-country partners about, oh I dunno, WHERE WE WILL SLEEP AT NIGHT. Discussing clothing options (I’m not the only one with Packing Panic).

Sitting down with The Calgary Herald and getting interviewed for the first time. Having our photos taken by the insanely jealous staff photog. Saying hi to the Editor of the ENTIRE FREAKING NEWSPAPER and hearing how thrilled he is we’re blogging on their site. Accidentally-on-purpose eating tripe at dum sum after the meeting.

All that happened. For real.